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Coriander, china-ink drawing

Coriandrum sativum

Coriander

Citrus, sweet pepper — soap if you misuse it.

Where it comes from. From the Mediterranean to Indonesia. The seeds belong in Italian cooking; the leaves are another country.

The mistake everyone makes. Confusing seeds and leaves. A ragù or a biscuit wants seeds; leaves stay off the pasta.

An unexpected Italian use. In mostaccioli, in a pork marinade, with lentils, in a homemade gin.

The recipe. Castelluccio lentils, crushed coriander seed, bay, raw oil. A January soup.

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