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Cumin, china-ink drawing

Cuminum cyminum

Cumin

Warm earth, bread, a noble animal note.

Where it comes from. The eastern Mediterranean. Italian grandmothers rarely used it — which is why Ginny teaches it.

The mistake everyone makes. Using it raw. Cumin must be toasted: from crude to perfume.

An unexpected Italian use. On roasted carrots, in a Tuscan chickpea purée, with lamb, in bread.

The recipe. Roasted carrots, toasted cumin, honey, wine vinegar. A side that steals the table.

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